Friday, July 31, 2009

Zacatecas Mask Museum

In Zacatecas we visited an old ex-convent that houses the Mask Museum. The bell tower and upper facade fell down at some time, probably from an earthquake and was never rebuilt.





However, the rubble was not lost but put to good use to construct a wall. There are cornices and small statues that were saved.




Here's a wall inside the exterior walls. See where the lintel over the window has rotted away.




Here's another old wall that has withstood the weather to varying degrees. The adobe brick on the right has lasted pretty well when covered by a lime and mortar mix. Some of the bricks on the left are lasting better than the mortar that surrounds them.




Here is an example of a mask that was made out of available materiels; an armadillo shell and deer antlers. (And more masks following in which you probably have less interest than I do--obviously. If only I could have such wonderful articles for MY mask collection!)




These masks and others following are carved of wood.








This is a crocodile "suit" which was worn around the waist of a dance participant. All carved of wood.




More primitive masks from the early 19th century.




This masks reminds me of a Japanese Noh mask used in theater. It's one of my favorites in this collection.




More and more . . .




Many masks are "fantismic"; out of the carvers dreams, or nightmares! But these are devils masks, of which there are a number of differing faces.




I wonder what the inspiration was for this mask . . .
















These are fairly contemporary using window screening for the mask with painted steel wool for the beards. Pretty unique!




These masks show the influence of black slaves from the Caribbean on Mexican artesania.




The mask carvers had a sense of humor:




A contemporary mask showing the influence of the Anglos. The hair is made from the same material that is used to make long handled brushes for removing cobwebbs from one's house.




Sorry about the lack of focus on this and the previous photo--the museum didn't allow flash photography.








These show the use of goat horns and deer antlers.




Just look at the realism of this mask.




This is an example of "armor" made of carved wood. The small pieces in the foreground are forearm covers.




Note the reflection of the back side of this wooden "armor".




Probably originally from the jungle area of southern Mexico.




Note the blue, black and white set of horns as well as a single red one, surrounded by snake heads.




One more "nose" mask . . .




This mask is made of paper mache' and probably used during Day of the Dead celebrations.




Leopard masks with boars teeth.


Wednesday, July 15, 2009

The LONG drive to the States

My friend Susy and I just got back from a shopping trip to San Antonio, TX. Two days to drive there, three days to shop and two days to drive back home.

I didn't take many photos as I was busy shopping but I did get two interesting shots. There are many shredded tires along the Mexican cuotas. Most 18-wheelers run recapped tires on all but their front wheels. The recaps are notorious for blow-outs, which we witnessed on one occasion. I always wondered what a tire looked like after the recap peeled off on the highway.
Well, we saw such a tire in the back of a tire truck.







I find the geology of Mexico to be surpisingly varied and interesting. Especially the mountains of the Sierra Oriental around Monterrey. In the pass between Saltillo and Monterrey are many pallisades (flat topped horizontal cliffs) emerging from the upper sides of the mountains. The particular pallisades that are of interest are vertical! They look as if massive forces pushed up and crinkled the rocks. This photo would have been better if taken early morning or late afternoon (and perhaps I'll get a chance one day) to capture strong side-lighting to show the "wrinkles".


Tuesday, June 30, 2009

Tourist Trip to Michoacan

My friend Susy and I recently took a 3 day "tourist" trip to Michoacan. We've been to this state southeast of Jalisco many times, but usually to look for new artesania or artists. This time we decided to see some sights like tourists.

Here are some atypical-colored street dogs resting under a truck.





This is another one for my Mexican Moments file. If you run out of room on your sign, just keep going on the next line . . . This sign is advertising "Coctel de Frutas con Chantilly" which translates, "Fruit Cocktail with Whipped Cream".




In the middle of a very small village we found a church with it's altar wall of gold. It was very dark inside the church, hence the poor quality of the photo, but it gives you some idea of it's splendor. We were told that the local priest was caught stealing gold from the church, so now there is someone to watch over the church day and night. When we were there a woman was sitting in a pew reading a newspaper, but keeping a close eye on us.





In the plaza of this same tiny village we found a carnival with children's rides. This old truck really stuck me as something special. I can image hours of fun to be had by kids riding around and around in circles.





In the churchyard of the Growing Christ (A statue of Christ was taken out of it's glass coffin to be cleaned and when it was returned it no longer fit. The foot portion of the coffin was extended about one foot to accomodate the growing statue.) we found these very old olive trees growing. I imagine they were planted back when the church was built in the mid-1500's. Their trunks were large around and looked like cork, with spindly growth at the tops.


Wednesday, June 24, 2009

Chicken or the Egg?

It just dawned on me today that I have given up caring about some things since I retired. I've given up caring about which came first; the chicken or the egg. I've given up trying to find out something that I don't have a chance of figuring out before I die, so why bother. Am I depressed or just pragmatic? Maybe I'm just tired, feel I'm without purpose and fear getting old . . .

Thursday, May 28, 2009

House Hunting

I've decided to look for a new house to rent. With housing prices finally falling and the low season in full swing, many properties are for rent and negotiating is possible. The owners of my house are going to retire and move here, perhaps next year, so it seems that now is the time .

I've always liked La Floresta; in fact I lived in lower LF when I first arrived in Mexico. The cobbled streets are wide and in pretty good shape. And lots of trees, which I need to keep my body temperature down. I've found four houses which I will look at later today and report back. If I decide to move I am willing to sign a one year lease and if the landlord and house are really wonderful I'll sign a five year lease after trying the house for the first year. I don't want to move but I want THE house that I can stay in until I die. Of course, that's what I found with my Eichler in Portland and then I moved here . . .

Wednesday, May 13, 2009

Another Perspective on Mexico by Linda Ellerbee

One Journalist’s View By Linda Ellerbee taken from the Banderas News

Sometimes I’ve been called a maverick because I don’t always agree
with my colleagues, but then, only dead fish swim with the stream
all the time. The stream here is Mexico.

You would have to be living on another planet to avoid hearing how
dangerous Mexico has become, and, yes, it’s true drug wars have
escalated violence in Mexico, causing collateral damage, a phrase
I hate. Collateral damage is a cheap way of saying that innocent
people, some of them tourists, have been robbed, hurt or killed.

But that’s not the whole story. Neither is this. This is my story. I’m a
journalist who lives in New York City, but has spent considerable time in
Mexico, specifically Puerto Vallarta, for the last four years.

I’m in Vallarta now. And despite what I’m getting from the U.S. media,
the 24-hour news networks in particular, I feel as safe here as I do
at home in New York, possibly safer. I walk the streets of my Vallarta
neighborhood alone day or night. And I don’t live in a gated community,
or any other All-Gringo neighborhood. I live in Mexico. Among Mexicans.
I go where I want(which does not happen to include bars where
prostitution and drugs are the basic products), and take no more
precautions than I would at home in New York; which is to say I don’t
wave money around, I don’t act the Ugly American, I do keep my eyes
open, I’m aware of my surroundings, and I try not to behave like a fool.

I’ve not always been successful at that last one. One evening a friend
left the house I was renting in Vallarta at that time, and, unbeknownst
to me, did not slam the automatically- locking door on her way out. Sure
enough, less than an hour later a stranger did come into my house. A
burglar? Robber? Kidnapper? Killer? Drug lord?

No, it was a local police officer, the “beat cop” for our neighborhood,
who, on seeing my unlatched door, entered to make sure everything
(including me) was okay. He insisted on walking with me around the
house, opening closets, looking behind doors and, yes, even under beds,
to be certain no one else had wandered in, and that nothing was missing.
He was polite, smart and kind, but before he left, he lectured me on
having not checked to see that my friend had locked the door behind her.
In other words, he told me to use my common sense.

Do bad things happen here? Of course they do. Bad things happen
everywhere, but the murder rate here is much lower than, say, New Orleans,
and if there are bars on many of the ground floor windows of houses here,
well, the same is true where I live, in Greenwich Village, which is
considered a swell neighborhood — house prices start at about $4 million
(including the bars on the ground floor windows).

There are good reasons thousands of people from the United States are
moving to Mexico every month, and it’s not just the lower cost of living,
a hefty tax break and less snow to shovel. Mexico is a beautiful country,
a special place. The climate varies, but is plentifully mild, the culture
is ancient and revered, the young are loved unconditionally, the old are
respected, and I have yet to hear anyone mention Britney Spears, Lindsay
Lohan, or Madonna’s attempt to adopt a second African child, even though,
with such a late start, she cannot possibly begin to keep up with
Anglelina Jolie.

And then there are the people. Generalization is risky, but—in general—
Mexicans are warm, friendly, generous and welcoming. If you smile at them,
they smile back. If you greet a passing stranger on the street, they greet
you back. If you try to speak even a little Spanish, they tend to treat you
as though you were fluent. Or at least not an idiot. I have had taxi drivers
track me down after leaving my wallet or cell phone in their cab. I have had
someone run out of a store to catch me because I have overpaid by twenty
cents. I have been introduced to and come to love a people who celebrate a
day dedicated to the dead as a recognition of the cycles of birth and death
and birth — and the 15th birthday of a girl, an important rite in becoming
a woman — with the same joy.

Too much of the noise you’re hearing about how dangerous it is to come to
Mexico is just that — noise.

But the media love noise, and too many journalists currently making it don’t
live here.

Some have never even been here. They just like to be photographed at night,
standing near a spotlighted border crossing, pointing across the line to some
imaginary country from hell.

It looks good on TV.

Another thing. The U.S. media tend to lump all of Mexico into one big bad
bowl. Talking about drug violence in Mexico without naming a state or city
where this is taking place is rather like looking at the horror of Katrina
and saying, “Damn. Did you know the U.S. is under water?” or reporting on
the shootings at Columbine or the bombing of the Federal building in
Oklahoma City by saying that kids all over the U.S. are shooting their
classmates and all the grownups are blowing up buildings. The recent rise
in violence in Mexico has mostly occurred in a few states, and especially
along the border. It is real, but it does not describe an entire country.

It would be nice if we could put what’s going on in Mexico in perspective,
geographically and emotionally.

It would be nice if we could remember that, as has been noted more than
once, these drug wars wouldn’t be going on if people in the United States
didn’t want the drugs, or if other people in the United States weren’t
selling Mexican drug lords the guns. Most of all, it would be nice if more
people in the United States actually came to this part of America (Mexico
is also America, you will recall) to see for themselves what a fine place
Mexico really is, and how good a vacation (or a life) here can be. So come
on down and get to know your southern neighbors. I think you’ll like it here. Especially the people.

Tuesday, May 5, 2009

A Lovely Bunch of . . . Bananas



My banana tree broke and fell over this morning. This bunch of bananas is the result--it's about 2.5 ft. long and weighs over 50 lbs. A banana only has one blossom in it's life and one bunch of fruit. I will try to get a photo of the blossom. When the gardener comes this afternoon, he will remove the tree which will allow the other smaller trees to grow and produce more bananas. The bunch is hanging over the terraza but hopefully won't attract bees and wasps for quite a while. I'll cut a "hand" of fruit off and give it to the gardener every week as I can't possibly eat them all before they rot. God is good!